Removal

Series: Performance & Titan

!!! WARNING !!! Before working on your machine, make sure it is parked on a level surface with the transmission in park and/or the parking brake engaged. Do not work on any machine with a hot engine or exhaust.  Allow time for all parts to cool in order to reduce the risk of burns.

Blackout Exhausts: Take care not to get grease or oils on the exhaust.  Cleaning our Blackout exhaust with harsh solvents or abrasives will remove the coating and is not covered under warranty.

Tip: Spray a small amount of penetrating oil or similar solvent onto the V-band clamp between the factory downpipe and turbocharger.  DO NOT do this while the engine, exhaust, or turbo is hot or fire may occur. This will help the V-band clamp release from the turbocharger and downpipe.

Remove the following:

• Rear fascia
• Downpipe to silencer springs
• Silencer
• Silencer support bracket
• Lateral heat shield and brackets
• Disconnect oxygen sensor from the wiring harness
• Upper and lower heat shields from the factory downpipe
• Factory downpipe (Save the gasket between the downpipe and turbo, it will be used with your new exhaust.  The gasket may stick to either the downpipe or turbo when the two are separated.  It is a thin ring.)

Installation

1. Install the provided bracket onto the machine by removing the factory bolt on the cargo bed support rail.  Place the bracket between the support rail and the flanged head of the bolt as shown in Figure 1.  Finish installing the bracket using the provided (3) M6x1.0x20 Hex Bolts, (6) #10 Washers, and (3) M6x1.0 Nylock Nuts as shown in Figure 2. Tighten all hardware securing the bracket.

Note: If your machine has been modified or is being used for race purposes and the cargo bed has been deleted or the cargo bed bolt is no longer an option for mounting the bracket, a sufficient support will need to be fabricated to support the bracket and silencer.  Failure to do so will result in damage and potential failure of the HMF exhaust which is not covered under warranty. The thin tab on the frame where the 3 bolts install as noted above is not strong enough to support the HMF silencer by itself under any riding conditions.

2. Transfer the downpipe gasket to the HMF downpipe and install the downpipe to the turbo using the original V-band clamp.  If your clamp is worn or damaged in any way, replace it with a new factory one.

3. Do not tighten the V-band clamp at this point.  Allow some room for the downpipe to rotate on the turbocharger. This will allow for proper positioning and ease the installation of the silencer.

4. Slide the silencer over the downpipe.  Loosely install using the provided (2) M10x1.5×40 Hex Bolts, (4) 5/16” Fender Washers, (2) 3/8” SAE Washers, and (2) M10x1.5 Nylock Nuts.  The fender washers will rest on either side of the rubber grommets in silencer brackets  The SAE washers should be in between the bracket and nylock nuts. Do not tighten any hardware at this point.

5. With the silencer loosely installed inspect the clearance between the original downpipe support bracket and the HMF downpipe.  If the HMF downpipe is contacting the support bracket, adjust the clearance by doing one of the following:

• Removing the plastic engine cover and adjusting the support bracket for proper clearance
• Modifying and/or cutting the support bracket to allow for clearance
• Removing the support bracket entirely (typically for race only machines)

6. Inspect for proper alignment and clearance of all other parts.  Once satisfied install the provided (2) Long Neck Springs between the downpipe and silencer using a spring puller or long piece of wire/rope.  Tighten the nut on the V-band clamp.  Tighten the hardware securing the silencer to the mounting bracket.

Note: If you used any penetrating oil or solvent to loosen the V-band clamp previously, clean off any remaining oil by wiping it down or spraying it down with a cleaning solvent and allowing it to dry.  HMF will not be responsible for any damage or fires due to improper cleaning of combustible materials.

7. Transfer the original oxygen sensor from the factory downpipe to the HMF downpipe.  It is recommended to use a small amount of anti-seize on the threads of the sensor to prevent galling when installing it into the downpipe.  Do not get anything onto the sensing portion of the oxygen sensor or failure of the senor may occur. Reconnect the oxygen sensor into the vehicle’s wiring harness and route the wiring away from any hot or moving parts.

8. Wipe off any fingerprints or markings using the soft cloth and mild detergent such as soap and water or glass cleaning without ammonia.  Once the exhaust heat cycles any oils left on the exhaust may permanently imprint.

9. Start the engine and check for any leaks.  If a major leak is detected, stop the engine immediately and address it.  The most common is a leak between the downpipe and turbo caused by an improperly seated V-band clamp.

Final Notes: 

1. If you received a stainless steel exhaust without the Blackout coating it is normal for the pipes to change color as they heat cycle.  Typically with the X3 and the high heat of the turbo, the pipes will initially turn a golden color and then progress to a deep blue or purple color with normal use.

2. The HMF Blackout exhaust will smoke and put out an odor for the first full heat cycle as the coating goes through its final curing process, it is recommended to allow this process to happen in a well ventilated area.

3. Near the turbo, the downpipe may begin to glow and show red with extended periods of idling or hard riding, this is normal due to the high exhaust temperatures (particularly visible with the stainless exhaust).

4. All systems will produce a smoke out the end cap after a short initial heat cycle, this is the packing material bedding in and is completely normal.

5. Do not neglect to properly tune this machine when an HMF exhaust is installed.

To install the provided spark arrestor:

Titan Series

1. Remove the (4) end cap bolts and the billet end cap by gently prying it from the shell of the silencer using a screwdriver in the center of the end cap.  Take care not to scratch or marr the end cap.

2. Place the spark arrestor with the domed end facing out in the end cap.  Reinstall the end cap using the original (4) bolts.  Use a small amount of medium strength thread locking compound (typically blue) to the bolts and tighten. It may be necessary to use a soft mallet to seat the end cap back into the silencer.  Do not force it.

Performance Series

1. Remove the (4) end cap bolts and the end cap.

2. Place the spark arrestor with the domed end facing out in the end cap.  Reinstall the end cap using the original (4) bolts.  Use a small amount of medium strength thread locking compound (typically blue) to the bolts and tighten.